I've been struggling with something behind the scenes for a while now. If you read my birthday post, you know that financially things have been tough for me, and that they are going to get better soon. But not that much better. I mean, I'm not winning the lottery or anything! What it does mean is that it won't be quite as tight from day to day.
My struggle is this: Printing patterns is expensive. That's the reality. Between the illustrations, grading, photos, models, hair/makeup people, and envelope/instructions/pattern printing, it costs a few grand to produce 1,000 patterns of one style the way I'm doing it now. And at that rate, I can probably afford to produce 1-2 patterns a year.
I have thought about ways to simplify things, and I know there are places to save money. For one, I can do the photographs myself in a more informal way. This works for loads of people, including Sewaholic, and I'm sure it would work fine for me too.
The big and obvious place to save money is in the printing department. Believe it or not, the color envelope is the most expensive piece of the pie. Right now I have an envelope with an instruction sheet inside and the printed pattern. All of that comes in a clear plastic envelope to protect it all. I could change the envelope and instructions to be an all-in-one booklet that comes inside the plastic envelope. That would save a ton of cash. If I made these changes, I could probably afford to produce 3-4 patterns a year.
Or, I could scrap all the printing and do PDFs. Lots of pattern companies do PDF patterns, and I could too. But, I for one really prefer a printed pattern over a PDF pattern. However, if the only reason my web shop isn't full of patterns is because of the expense of printing, is that enough to keep doing things the same way? I have no shortage of ideas and have a rack of patterns from my ready to wear days that could be for sale now. If I made these changes, I could afford to do dozens of patterns a year.
So, what's a girl to do?
My mom always taught me that if I'm faced with a challenge that I don't know the answer to, make yourself a pros and cons list. So here we go!
Pros to PDF Patterns:
- No shipping costs, which is especially great for international customers
- Downloads = immediate gratification for the shopper
- Less expenses for me = more designs
- Less expenses = cheaper pattern for the shopper
- I can offer them on other downloadable pattern sites, like Craftsy
Cons to PDF Patterns:
- Takes a lot of paper to print each pattern
- The endless taping!!!
- Customers can share files or photocopy the pattern (hopefully no one would do that, but still...)
- They would only be available on my website and not in stores
- Storing PDF patterns is totally annoying (no envelope, more bulk with all the taped pages)
- No matter how nice it's all packaged, it somehow feels less "professional" to me
- I've spent time building relationships with stores and now I'd have to change things
- No way around it, it feels like a step backwards
- Unlike many other people, I actually prefer sewing with tissue paper and not real paper
- Sounds odd, but I will actually miss packing up the physical patterns into pretty packages :)
Here's my issue- I think sites like Victory Patterns are awesome, but while I own three of their patterns, I haven't made one yet because the endless taping stops me every time, and then I move onto a pattern that is already printed. And I know from this discussion on Sunni's blog that many of you feel the same. I have made some of Grainline's patterns, but that's not really a fair comparison, since those were for tops and had very few pages to print or tape. I usually design dresses and those eat up a lot of sheets of paper.
So, as far as I can see it, here are my choices. I seriously NEED to hear opinions from all of you, so please let me know your thoughts in the comments below!
1- keep them printed as is and produce 1 or 2 patterns a year
2- keep them printed, but change all that I can to save costs and produce 3-4 patterns a year
3- change it up and release all future patterns as PDFs
4- split the difference- release some patterns on paper a year and do a bunch else as PDFs
Thanks in advance for your help! I really am not sure where to go with this and would appreciate your opinions!
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33 comments:
i dont know what is best for you - it sounds like you really like to have printed patterns produced and I can certainly understand that. But as a customer I can say that I am one who loves pdf print at home patterns. I dont mind the taping - its something i can easily do in front of the tv. the biggest reason is that cost difference. money is tight for me too and so its hard for me to spend up to $20 on a pattern plus shipping. pdf patterns make a lot of patterns more accessible to me. just my 2 cents. good luck with the decision.
i love a beautiful package, but i "grew up" on PDFs at burdastyle, so printing and taping is easy peasy for me. i really don't understand why there's an aversion to it; it takes me almost as much time to unfold, iron out and trace a tissue pattern as it does for me to print out, tape and cut a pdf. and if i'm feeling reckless and just want to cut my size, i can do that with a pdf... not a tissue. i think i hate tracing like some peeps hate taping :))
if you look at victory or pattern runway's pdfs, they're quite lovely, very unlike a burda pdf. maybe printing out & trying a victory pattern would help you decide?
as far as i'm concerned, i've been wondering when new christine will arrive... anything that gets more patterns in your shop is what i vote for. MORE CHRISTINE PLEASE. :)
I prefer pdf patterns because of the instant gratification, no shipping cost, and no need for tracing. I just print, glue my paper together and cut my size. IF one day I changed size, I can just print again ...
I simply dislike tissue paper, they're so thin and flimsy, I'm afraid they'll rip ... THAT's the reason I haven't even opened my paper sewing patterns, I have quite a number of them from Sewaholic that I just don't want to open, because I know I will have to wrestle the giant tissue paper and in the end I usually just try to fold them back together (which is so hard to do), and stuff them back in the envelope ...
To be honest, I have never sewn anything from paper sewing patterns. I have quite a number of them, yet they just don't appeal to me. Even the ones with thicker paper, like deer and doe, megan nielsen ... I just dislike tracing, dislike the huge paper, dislike having to make sure the paper isn't damaged so I can re-use it again if I change size ...
I've never thought about distributing the files to anyone else, because I respect the people who make them.
I haven't bought any of your patterns even though I like them since they were out ages ago, due to: they're paper patterns (sorry!) ...
Sometimes I wish all patterns are available in paper and pdf format, so all of us won't have to have lengthy discussions about which is better ...
I think some people prefer paper patterns, and some prefer pdfs ...
The same as some people like having wavy hair, and other prefer straight hair (or something like that) ... No right or wrong answers, it's just people preference differs ...
I think, for you, you should do what YOU feel is right for you ...
Whatever your decision is, we will root for you :)
All the best Christine!!! :)
PS: maybe I should say I have one of those ink advantage printer, that can print huge numbers of papers fast, using less ink, and the cartridge is cheaper than normal ...
And I buy bulk lower quality printing paper for printing pdf sewing patterns, yes they're not as white and not as thick but they work fine and they cost less ... And not as bulky to store once they're glued together ...
I use glue, not glue stick, but those gooey glue, I buy the big bag, put in an empty (and clean) JIF container ... Then in another container I keep my mini brush to use with my glue ...
They work better than sticky tape and cheaper too ...
And I store the patterns in a clear folder ...
I don't glue all the paper together into a big pattern, I glue per-section, like I do the bodice, I cut, then the sleeve, then cut ... Therefore I don't have to wrestle with the giant paper monster ...
PPS: NOW PDF patterns without seam allowances ... Those I LOATHE ... But I still buy them :s what's wrong with me lol ...
PS: IF you're worried about people photocopying and sharing the pdf pattern, paper sewing pattern can easily be photocopied too ... Just find a copyshop, they'll have one of those huge paper ... And it costs like $2 ...
Maybe sharing/taping a pdf pattern for a large/complicated item is daunting, but for easy ones I have A. never had any hesitation with the taping and, I would say more concerningly/importantly, B. never had any hesitation about sending it to a friend. If I were you, I'd be most concerned about the copyright issues. Yes, someone can always take a paper pattern to a copy shop, but there's nothing easier than just emailing the file to a friend in need.
Christina,
I definitely vote for Door #4. Try some PDFs and see how your clientele responds, and also make the changes to reduce costs on your printed patterns. Maybe do one top and one dress as a PDF and see if there is any difference in interest from your customers. It is a tricky, tricky business, but I think you won't really know without some experimentation. I know LOTS of people who love Wild Ginger software, and they tape millions of pieces of paper together all the time. Not my thing, but I honestly do know lots of people who do it. All my "young" sewing students say that PDFs are "great" because they get them right away - so I also think a bit of it may be generational. (Sorry - but it could be true!! :-)
Keep designing! We need more independent designers and fresh ideas in the sewing world. And I hope to get to the ASG conference in VA this summer - I enjoyed your class so much in LA - hope to get to see you again!
Maris Olsen
I vote for #2! If it's possible for you to keep producing printed patterns in a way that isn't so expensive, that would be awesome. I would love to have the tissue pattern with illustrated, black/white cover in plastic envelope.
I wish I didn't mind printing & piecing together PDF patterns, but in reality I think it does keep me from doing patterns that otherwise look really cool.
<3 <3 <3
Amy
I vote for a combination of #2 and #4. Make them less expensive for you, but still offer printed patterns. Who doesn't love that tissue paper? I for one just love the sound and feel of it.
I also would love to see more PDF patterns. I'm not a huge fan, but so loved the instant gratification of it and knowing I can cut it to the exact size and then reprint a new size if needed. I never do that with the printed purchased patterns. :) Your Sassy Librarian was my first ever PDF pattern experience.
I like PDF's a lot, but I don't have a brick and mortar store nearby that would stock them. I like being able to buy them without paying shipping and have them ready to go whenever I want. I know for the Wiksten Tova the price difference was huge for me. I also don't like tracing (and tracing on tissue paper is a real pain), so it's nice to be able to print out different copies for different sizes, although that mainly applies for kids patterns. The other thing that I'm loving lately is that pdf instructions can be on my Nook, so I'm not searching all around for the instruction book while I'm sewing, or I can read them while I'm not in my sewing room. But there are still lots of people who don't spend their days online and are best reached inside of a fabric shop where they're also inspired by fabric at the same time, so it's a tough choice.
I vote #2 and give #4 a try as well. There's no hurt in trying! I've been thinking about adding pdfs too, and your pros/cons lists are so familiar. I've been having the same conversation. I do think the instant thing is a real value.
I've done a survey on my blog last week, and everyone says either 'printed' or 'both' when I asked about printed or pdf. I'd say go for option 2 as long as you don't go down in quality! From reading you pro and con list, it seems you already know what you prefer :) And I agree on all! If you have smaller patterns like grainline, you could do them in pdf. I think that releasing 4 patterns a year also keeps the buzz going more and will lead to more clients alltogether. Good luck with your decision!
I too like pdf patterns because I don't have to worry about tracing and making changes to the pattern. If I make a mess, I can just reprint. I like that. But I don't care for tracing a pattern.
I like that pdf patterns are usually significantly cheaper. I'm willing to take a chance on a new pattern if it's less than $10. But at 15-20$, I'm gonna wait and think about my purchase, and I will purchase less patterns at that price.
As for sharing, hmmm... I haven't ever shared a pattern yet, be it paper or pdf. I might be inclined to loan a pattern to my sister or a friend who is just getting into sewing that would be discouraged by the cost, but other than that, I personally buy patterns for myself. And I expect my fellow seamstresses to buy their own patterns to! Especially patterns from independent companies like yourself--I want to support those designers!
I haven't sewn PDFs until I had a sewing dare because the amount of taping. I personally not incline to buy them. Although I did enjoy sewing the PDF I chosen as it was less than 20 pages. PDF works only for simple design. On twitter we had a discussion on how to make printable patterns affordable . I suggest talking with steph from cake patterns and Nara Denmark as both are facing the same issue. Cake used pre ordering to help on print.
I'm going to try to find that conversation and send to you.
I really hope we can see more printed patterns from you.
Maria Denmark, ohh auto correct
I have so many thoughts on this, Chrstine. I think foremost though is that it would be a shame for you to have so many patterns unlaunched, so perhaps this is a factor that overrides all my other points. I've noticed that Wiksten's Tova pattern exploded once it was available for PDF download, so maybe it's worth a try? And you're able to stock them at plenty of other places than just your own shop - I stock my PDFs at Sew, Mama, Sew and The Fat Quarter Shop.
However, I love PDFs for smaller patterns, but for dressmaking I find them off putting. I once downloaded a pattern that had about 56 pages to tape together and what was infuriating was that many of those pages were unnecessary as they were for variations, but the way it had been laid out you had to print them all as they jumbled it all up. Maybe you could improve on this format or not offer variations to keep things simple? Or have you thought about testing the water with a PDF for smaller pattern such as a blouse and seeing how it goes?
With the paper patterns I don't find a colour packet necessary at all - I think you could pull off something totally stylish with a black and white line drawing.
Again, professional shoots are the ideal, but not having them wouldn't put me off. Again, I think Wiksten does really well here with their photos.
I should say though that despite having bought my Wiksten PDF months ago, I'm yet to make it up!
Good luck with your decision making - trust your instincts rather than your logic, I think. X
It sounds like you really prefer printed patterns so you should go with what you like and your vision for your patterns.
I am on the opposite side of the spectrum, while I appreciate printed patterns, I prefer pdf patterns.
I like the instant gratification - I see one I like, I download it right away and I can be testing it that same day. Pdf patterns are also cheaper so I am more likely to take a chance purchasing a new, potentially experimental style.
I know this is a controversial topic so I am very interested in seeing what others have to say!
I prefer printed patterns. I've shied away from purchasing a pattern only because it was pdf. I don't want to tape. I don't want to worry about the printer re-sizing the image. I would like to see more of your patterns, though, so it would be great for your to cut costs and issue 3-4 a year.
Well, since I own a fabric shop, I'd have to say I prefer paper patterns. We sell them, after all! However, if the immediate gratification of PDFs means more sewing (and, incidentally, more fabric shopping!) then they are great! I make only a small percentage of my garments from PDFs, since I want most of the clothes I wear to help me pay the rent. As a fellow small business person I know *exactly* what a challenge that is. I don't think printables would be a step backwards, though I can see why one might feel that way. I think that more designs out there in the world would be great! Why not do a mix of the two, so they can reinforce one another?
I like options 2 and 4. Personally, I prefer paper patterns over PDFs, but then again I'm a print lover and I also prefer books over a Kindle!
If you were going to do PDFs would you do the pattern in color or black and white? For the Sassy Librarian Blouse I had the pdf printed by a local print shop. I wanted to have it printed in color because it was necessary to match up the sizes correctly. I think I ended up paying $20+ because each page was color.
Whatever you decide, I am soooo excited to see what you have been dreaming up!
If not producing a printed pattern means that you could possibly offer more patterns every year, I say go for it. That means more sewing projects for us and more income for you!
I really like the idea of you offering a mix of PDFs and printed pattern. When presented with the option to buy a PDF download or have a printed copy mailed to me, I decide based on the complexity of the project. I would totally buy a PDF for something like your peter pan collar or a top. But I wouldn't want to assemble and tape pages together to make a dress or pants or something that uses a lot of fabric, and therefore uses a lot of paper.
My only concern would be that, with a smaller run of the printed pattern, you might be sacrificing price breaks you might get on a larger quantity, thereby making the printed pattern more expensive. I think yours are priced just right!
How about an experiment? What if you make one of your current (or future) patterns into a PDF and see what happens? It would be interesting to see which sold better! (Or perhaps you can ask someone who sells the same pattern as a PDF and paper copy which option people choose more?)
When given the option of a print pattern that I have to mail-order or download a PDF, I go for the PDF. I'm in Canada so the cost can be high and the delivery slow for mail-order. The chances that anyone local is carrying the print pattern (except for Sewaholic's since we're in the same city) is virtually nil. Even with all the headaches of printing and piecing together of PDFs, there's something to be said for instant gratification! Also the price can make a big difference whether I'll spring for something that I'm not sure will suit me. Since I have to do a lot of fitting changes to any pattern anyway, there is no advantage to tissue over printer paper. I always trace.
Personally I think you should consider offering both print & PDFs and to reduce the costs of your printing and packaging in whatever way makes sense. Then you can offer more designs!
I think a combination of paper and PDF patterns would be good. I think if someone is going to share or copy a pattern it isn't going to matter what type it is, unfortunately. Storage of the PDF patterns isn't really that big a problem, just get a bin and roll them up neatly- problem solved!
I'd say go for a mix of #2 and #4. I myself prefer printed patterns because they are easier to store and I love the packaging. I've used pdf's before and I don't really mind them. I do like that I don't have to trace. I can just cut my pattern out and reprint if needed. Actually your Sassy Librarian Blouse was the first pdf I ever did. I'm not picky at all, if I really want a pattern I'll take it however I can get it. Smaller patterns you could offer pdf and the bigger patterns offer printed and cut costs where you can. I think it would be cool to see pattern cover art revert back to drawings. Give them a vintage feel. Not sure if that would save you any money in the long run. If it was me I'd have to hire an artist because I can't draw a stick figure.
As an owner of a pattern store ( who stocks your beautiful patterns btw) and as a sewer I do prefer a printed pattern. Although I do use pdf patterns for me having the detailed booklets etc is part of the experience not to mention keep things a bit tidier ( how annoying is it to organize all those taped sheets??)I am happy to pay a few bucks extra.
I would probably offer both printed and pdf patterns so your customers can choose, everyone's happy. I also liked ShanniLoves idea of the vintage drawing cover art that would be really cool!
Good Luck Christine :-)
Why don't you do a test pattern as PDF only and see what happens? Since you work in a fabric store I assume they sell your patterns and thus you would want to continue that.
If you do go the PDF route put all the sizes together. I don't like PDF patterns where each size is seperate, I'm not 1 size. :-)
I'm down with pdf--as long as they include seam allowances. Printing them is fine, taping them is fine, but tracing them in order to add seam allowance? Blearrrgh. As a consumer, they tend to be cheaper, too. AND, I can print again if I want to.
I hadn't ever considered the idea of sharing patterns before; honestly, I don't have any local friends that sew, so that's a non-issue.
I DO prefer independent patterns to the big 4; mostly because they fit better.
So, I say, in order to increase your pattern line, bring on the pdfs, especially for separates. But, I'm mostly down with a 2/4 split. I agree with everyone else that likes patterns for larger sized dress pieces, though.
Maybe I'm selfish but I would LOVE for you to start making some pdf patterns. As you mentioned previously it helps the international customer. Because I live in a part of the world were receiving post is expensive and unreliable I almost only have pdf patterns now. Although I too prefer tissue patterns.
I think doing a split and offering them in printed and pdf is a great idea.
Also I don't feel bad about cutting into a pdf pattern for alterations because it's not permanent. I also can't imagine sharing a pattern, not only because I don't know other sewers locally, but because I think the independent sewers understand and respect the process and ownership.
I think it totally depends on what kind of seamstress you are. I really love PDF patterns!!
They are instant. You buy, you have... immediately. No waiting for delivery, like me... who lives in Ireland with NO decent dressmaking shops and postage to Ireland is so expensive from the outside countries.
They are easy peasy. Stick, stick, cut cut. Done. Not like Tissue Patterns. Ironing them, tracing them... tedious!!
PLEASE don't be negative about PDF patterns, I would be so excited by them!!
bundana x
I like PDFs better. Pretty packaging means nothing if I have to pay twice as much for it and its printed on flimsy crinkly paper. In a PDF you don't have to pay for OR wait for shipping, taping is no big deal.
Ultimately it's your decision but you really have nothing to lose by starting to experiment with PDF patterns. I think enough people like them that you'd be pleasantly surprised.
I don't think offering pdf patterns necessarily means going backwards ... Take Colette patterns for example, they started off with paper patterns, then started offering a few as pdf and paper patterns ...
Then I think I read on the blog that Sarai wrote that they're surprised at the number of sales the pdf paper makes ... And they're working on making all patterns available as both pdf and paper pattern, although "nutmeg" I think is only available as pdf now ...
And I think I read on Tasia's blog once, that she wanted to make pdf patterns as well as paper pattern, but right now she just doesn't have the means to do it ...
I think you'll be surprised how many people actually like pdf patterns ...
And myself, the thought of sharing pattern never even occured to me ...
I'm pretty new to the pattern world and so far the only pattern I have worked with is your Sassy Librarian Blouse. It did take me an afternoon of taping and cutting out, but not a big issue since I made sure I had something good on TV. If you are able to print the patterns you think are paper eaters and then make those that don't require too many pages PDFs then you would be sitting pretty. Just my 2 cents.
I would suggest offering pdfs as an option to all printed patterns and letting the customer decide based on their preference. I only buy pdfs if they are available as untiled large format prints (A0 or larger) and get them printed at my local copyshop. The most this has ever cost me is A$ 8.80 for the burdastyle Adam coat. The paper is nice and durable and the shop has a slicer to cut off excess. I don't tape/ glue A4s because I see it as a total waste of sewing time and I'm not interested in doing that. This is why I don't buy Grainline (they don't have the untiled option). I do however, buy Burdastyle's copy shop options and Salme patterns and Victory patterns both offer untiled on request.
Another suggestion I can offer is to put the instructions on one A4 (concise and unillustrated) with a link to a detailed illustrated pdf online (to save on printing booklets Re the pattern envelope monochrome on brown paper or suchlike with illustrated styling + line diagrams seems to me a good way to save on coloured ink.
Best of luck whatever you decide.
I vote for #2&4. One option for saving some dough, don't hire professionals! there are plenty of models, make up artists, & hair stylists who will work for credit to have something to put on their resume & for the experience. if an item says that it is copyrighted, a copy shop shouldn't be printing it ! do larger patterns printed on paper& small ones as PDF downloads. most importantly, come out w more patterns!
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