Making the Veste Pavot

February 25, 2013


The minute I saw the Pavot jacket from Deer & Doe, I knew it was for me. I love all the other indie pattern jackets, but I really prefer a longer, trench-style jacket that hangs well over all the dresses I wear. Yesterday I basted together my muslin and I'm happy that not only did it go together quickly and easily, but there aren't too many pattern alterations to make either. Yay!

I like my jackets to fit with a decent amount of ease, as they are not dresses, they are outerwear. My intension is to wear this on my upcoming trip to France where I can only take one jacket, so it has to work with everything and has to fit over it all with ease. My only complaint about the fitting is that it's smaller than the usual sizing. Chalk that up to the skinny ladies of Paris? Not sure. But as a heads up to those of you considering it, I am (currently- it's always fluctuating!) 37" in the bust and 31" in the waist. I decided to cut the largest size and see what needed to come down from there. There are no finished measurements in the pattern, so I wasn't sure how the ease would fit and I'm happy I went with the largest.

Changes to make:

  • My usual small shoulder alteration will have to happen by bringing in the shoulder seam at least 1.5" (yeah, I have small shoulders!).
  • Take some of the fullness out of the center back by straightening the curve on the center back and reducing the extra fabric. 
  • Add about an inch to the waist. It fits fine, but again, I like some ease in my jacket and my muslin was made with actual muslin, where my finished jacket will be thicker fabric so I'm anticipating that it will be a tighter fit. I will do this by straightening the side seams a little, adding to the waist and reducing the flair a little bit on the skirt.
  • Cut the princess seams at the bust a size smaller.
  • Shorten the sleeve from wrist length to a retro-inspired 3/4 length.

I thought I'd want to reduce the flair on the skirt a lot and lengthen the skirt based on the drawing and photos on their website, but was happily surprised that both were close to perfect. 

Another change I'm planning to make- lining it! Here's where I need your help! I am not an experienced jacket maker and all the store bought jackets I own all have polyester or silk linings. But how will lawn hold up? Have any of you lined a jacket in lawn? Is that crazy talk? 

The outer fabric is the lovely gray and natural scallop print from Ellen Baker for Kokka (below) that I ordered from Superbuzzy (which weirdly still hasn't arrived almost 2 weeks later despite being an hour from my home... hmpf. insert profanity here...). My dream lining would be the mustard floral which is a lawn from Liberty of London from Purl Soho. Come on, that's pretty dreamy, right?


 

It's pricey of course because it's Liberty, so I want to make sure it will work before I splurge. So... what are your thoughts? Please share your lining hits and misses and help a girl with some advice! Thanks! 

9 comments:

  1. I'd use a poly or silk lining as the lawn won't allow the jacket to slip and glide over your outfit underneath. How about using the Liberty print as a blouse, so you can see the fab combo, and use a silk or poly lining in the jacket.

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  2. i agree with debra... i would not use a cotton as a lining. use something slippery! but do make something with the liberty fabric, it's too pretty to pass!

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  3. Ah, see... I was all concerned about it being too fragile and thin and didn't even think about the slippery factor! True ladies, true. This is why I asked you all for advice! Thanks :)

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  4. Oh you are going to France, how exiting! I agree about the lining. The liberty fabric is so cute though!

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  5. Yes! This is our 4th year in a row going for 5 weeks each time. I unplug, refresh, and get inspired. I love it there... it's where I'm most at home! Thanks for your thoughts on the lining! Clearly I'm going to have to find something as cute as the Liberty :)

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  6. Can't wait to see your version - I really like this pattern :) I always use Bemberg rayon for lining because its silky but also breathable, unlike the poly ones :)

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  7. Superbuzzy had a QuiltCon booth this past weekend in Austin- Maybe thats why there was a delay?

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  8. If you make the sleeve lining in a slick rayon or silk and the body lining in the liberty you will have the best of both worlds! I have a jacket I lined that way and I love seeing the pretty print in the body but still have the ease of getting it on by having rayon sleeve lining.
    xx

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  9. Thanks all! I got my lining today- Bemberg rayon! Thanks to all the suggestions and to Symon for suggesting Bemberg! Perfect choice!

    Though I love your idea Alexia :)

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